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A Pizza.....Like No Other!

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September 28, 2014 / Pizza / By
Anna

“I’ve just had the best pizza in the whole of Italy! Let me tell you where....”

You hear this, or similar words quite a lot. Bit of a tall order, really, when you consider how many pizzerias there must be in the “...whole of Italy”. Maybe it’s time to inject a little perspective into this.

Point 1: It’s pretty darned near impossible to get a really bad pizza anywhere in Italy. But you can get indifferent to shockingly bad service and the spoiled occasion can get all tangled up with the enjoyment of the actual food itself. Point 2: The difference between a perfectly OK pizza and one that is a cut above OK isn’t actually all that much. The greatness of the pizza is more than a little likely to come from the company you are with, the location, the table service and the general atmosphere of friendliness imparted by the staff or owners of the business.

So, visitors to Umbria, here’s a little place well worth tracking down. It’s a little off the usual tourist paths, but if you are in our area of Bevagna / Montefalco / Foligno, it’s not all that far and with the SatNav systems pretty much all of us have on our phones these days, easy enough to find.

Il Mulino, just outside the walls of Gualdo Cattaneo is a pizzeria that ticks most of my boxes for a pizza like no other. It’s open six nights of the week (closed on Mondays) and you’d be wise to either get there early or actually have someone ring and make a reservation for you on Saturday or Sunday nights – call 0742 91940. Full of other tourists? Nope – local Italians from Gualdo Cattaneo and the area around. In fact, expect that you won’t hear any English at all, but don’t let that put you off, because the owners will make you very welcome anyway.

The menu will be in Italian, but all the expected pizzas will be there: Margharita (tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese), Quattro Formaggi (a mix of four cheeses), Quattro Stagione (literally four seasons – a mostly vegetarian pizza – a good choice of flavors if you want to share. Salumi and Salsicce are for the meat-eaters (literally, slices of salami and sausage, but usually with vegetables as well, and the all-important mozzarella cheese). For the strict vegetarian pizza-lover, look for Vegetariana and if cheese is a problem, ask for Pizza Senza Formaggio (cheeseless pizza) – there may be a pizza without cheese on the menu, or the waiter will instruct the cook to make you one. For all those other flavors, you could resort to Google Translate on your phones to find out exactly what you are ordering when you select a pizza with carciofi, rucola, funghi, alici or tartufo.

So, apart from food and friendliness, what else sets Il Mulino apart? Try homeliness. This is as genuine an Italian experience as you are likely to get anywhere. No tourists, remember – just locals, so expect quite a bit of noise and plenty of kids, especially on those weekend nights. Décor is not exactly what you might expect either. A mix of Elvis’s Jungle Room in a large home dining room, with family photographs intermingled with saints and recent popes. And of course, the television set.

The bill will be a pleasant surprise too. On my last visit, I had a bit more than I usually do: a beer, a pizza, dessert (the ubiquitous tiramisu) and a café corretto (an espresso with a shot of digestion-correcting alcohol in it – in this case, Sambuca). Total: €14.00, including the service charge.

Italy must have literally thousands of great little places like Il Molino. I’ll probably never get to eat at more than thirty or forty. You’ve just had the best pizza in Italy? At which of the ten thousand plus best pizzerias was that?


il Mulino

Country: Italy

Province/State: Umbria

City: Gualdo Cattaneo

Address: N/A

Zip/Post Code: N/A

Location Tips: Near Foligno

Phone: 0742 91940

Website:http://www.tripadvisor.co...

Price Guide:$$ (What's this?) N/A = home cooked meal,etc
$ = street food, fast food,etc
$$ = bistro, cafe, pub, bar,etc
$$$ = fine dining,etc

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