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Eating in Rome: Summer, 2017. Porto Fluviale

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July 2, 2017 / Italian / By
Anna

From Porto Fluviale's Trattoria menu: eggplant/melanzana wrap

I’d better start by owning up: I don’t eat in Rome in summer any time, if I can help it. Nothing to do with the place or its possibilities, but the heat and the crowds are just more than I’m willing to deal with. With that out of the way, there are three interesting new possibilities for both old hands, well familiar with Rome and its pitfalls and first time visitors alike. Best of all, they’re easily accessible.

The easiest of the lot is Rome’s Termini Station. Now Roma Termini used to be one of those “watch your pockets and personal belongings; hucksters and panhandlers on the starboard bow” places mentioned in bold type in all the guidebooks. And while I would never suggest you drop your guard completely, it is much improved in recent years. As well as major refurbishments to the train arrival and departure areas, including almost airport-like security at boarding time, the upstairs cafeteria area has had a major overhaul. I haven’t tried it myself yet, but I’ve heard from many “old hands” who have lived here for years that it’s well worth a visit. And definitely major competition for that authentic little trattoria just around the corner from Termini that we all dream of finding. Check out the possibilities here. “Quick-snack” options are on level 0, or -1, while the more substantial, sit down and have a serious meal choices are on level 1 (i.e., upstairs). I hope to provide a more in-depth review of what’s available when the weather cools - maybe in the autumn.

Also not far from Termini, at Ostiense Station (you can get there by overground train, metro or even a short taxi ride), also upstairs, is Eataly. Now I confess to being a bit cynical about this place when I first saw it. Eataly is a franchise food outlet, a bit like Carluccios, which combines an eat-in restaurant with a shop and behind it all, there’s an on-line shopping empire. The Amazon.com of Italian food? Maybe. There are 4 floors of shops and food outlets in the building that sits atop Ostiense Station. I like the idea of the on-premises micro brewery; you won’t find that in Dubai’s Eataly! Again, I haven’t tried it yet, but I hear very good reports from trusted people who’ve lived here in Italy for a good few years, so it’s also earmarked for an Autumn visit. If you’re using the Metro, go to Metro stop Pyramide.

Porto Fluviale main: Frittura di Calimari (flash-fried squid)

Finally, the place I have tried and highly recommend. Porto Fluviale is a very chic, multi-outlet foodie hang-out in an old warehouse, close to the River Tiber, just a short walk from the Ostiense/Pyramide station complex. Ask Google Maps for walking directions from the station and even in the heat of summer, you’ll be there in less than 10 minutes. It’s a trattoria, it’s a pizzeria, it’s a very cool cocktail bar, it’s an international street-food buffet and it’s a nice pub with a very good selection of boutique beers.

All of these internal spaces are individually defined by walls and dividers, so that each has its own personality, but there’s also a very clever “flow-through” so that you can move effortlessly from one area to another as the mood takes you. Best of all, the clientele is good mixture of locals and brave eaters, like yourselves, who have proven willing to get out and get beyond the indifferent Roman “safe” choices and menu turistico places that are found all around the tourist hotspots.

 

Porto Fluviale

Country: Italy

Province/State: Roma (Rome)

City: Rome/Ostiense

Address: Via del Porto Fluviale, 22

Zip/Post Code: 00154, Roma

Location Tips: 8 minutes walk from Roma Ostiense Station

Phone: +39 06 5743199

Website:http://www.portofluviale....

Price Guide:$$ (What's this?) N/A = home cooked meal,etc
$ = street food, fast food,etc
$$ = bistro, cafe, pub, bar,etc
$$$ = fine dining,etc

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