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Foie-Gras Every Day

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November 6, 2016 / French / By
Anna

Yes, that really was my ambition during a ten day break in the Dordogne. I did not quite manage it but I came close enough.

One of the towns we really enjoyed was Bergerac, a quite substantial town sited on the banks of the Dordogne River itself. It has delightful old buildings that are different from other small towns in France, a statue of Cyrano de Bergerac - he with the big nose, sword always at the ready and a very, very short fuse - in a picturesque square, attractive civic planting throughout and a lot of restaurants. All of these things work for me. I took photos of the gardens, but no cuttings unfortunately. That's Cyrano in the centre, above, fortunately with his back to me. And just to be safe, I resisted the urge to gasp and exclaim,"Zut alors! Quel nez!"

The choice of restaurant followed the usual tussle between the not quite competing needs of four people. Do we sit in the sun, in dappled shade, in full shade or even inside? Luckily, we all agreed on outside and semi-shade. It was still surprisingly hot in the Dordogne in September with temperatures in the low 30s quite often.

Le Richelieu is a small restaurant in amongst a cluster of similar places. It's also just a short walk from the river-side quay area. It has almost no space inside, and I wondered if it would shut for the winter. Three of us ordered one or other of the plat du jour, and the fourth (The Tall Guy) a giant steak. TTG was a little crestfallen when the rest of us received starters, mains and a dessert. And he paid almost as much for his steak as we did for the set menu. Yes, the steak was an option on one of the set menus.

Anyway the steak was delicious, apparently, and I surrendered my dessert as it was basically ice cream, always a favorite with TTG, whereas for me, it's just something I like but can skip with ease.

My choice had been centered on the set menu that began with the foie gras. It was €4.00 more that the other option but well worth it, for such a large slab of foie gras and delicious. It was canard (duck) rather than goose, but most of the foie gras we saw for sale was, in fact, duck. The goose option is considerably more expensive but I have purchased a small tin of it to try as a special treat in the depths of winter.

We lingered long over this meal and followed it up with a lengthy exploratory stroll through the town. Being a Saturday, most businesses were open and the shops were a pleasant mix of an ordinary range of most things that locals would like to shop for and some other quite chic establisments aimed at visitors and tourists. Although many small towns and villages in this part of France are lifeless, Bergerac does not have this problem in the summer and autumn. It may be different in the winter.

Footnote: Restaurant Le Richelieu doesn't get a terrific rating from TripAdvisor, but the bulk of reviews rate it Good, or OK. That would be our impression as well - good value for money; not the best place we ate at during the 10 days, but we'd go back.

Le Richelieu

Country: France

Province/State: Aquitaine

City: Bergerac

Address: 23 Rue des Conférences

Zip/Post Code: 24100

Location Tips: N/A

Phone: +33 5 53 57 91 00

Website:...

Price Guide:$$ (What's this?) N/A = home cooked meal,etc
$ = street food, fast food,etc
$$ = bistro, cafe, pub, bar,etc
$$$ = fine dining,etc

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